This Week’s Wine Tasting
Bodegas Riojanas of Rioja, Spain
Welcoming Winemaker Pablo Orio
“Bodegas Riojanas treasures more than a century of winemaking tradition in its Cenicero winery. Its corners are steeped in history and talk of the passion for ageing wines that has always permeated it. This tradition and passion have been transmitted to the team that runs Bodegas Riojanas today. Its most precious legacy is its commitment to quality and the personality of its wines.
The Artacho family already enjoyed a deep-rooted winemaking tradition when it founded Bodegas Riojanas with Rafael Carreras in 1890. A reminder of that tradition can be found in the stone gateway that was built in 1799 to provide access to the family vineyards, which is now preserved at the entrance to the Cenicero winery and, especially, in the awards given to its wines prior to the foundation, such as the gold medal earned at the Barcelona Universal Exposition in 1888.
The original winery was located in Cenicero, at the heart of Rioja Alta, on a land that stretches from the river Najerilla to the Ebro, 20 km from Logroño on the N-232 road. The new winery is located 20 km from Cenicero, in San Vicente de la Sonsierra, a town on the left bank of the River Ebro, also in Rioja Alta.
Bodegas Riojanas controls more than 300 hectares of the best vineyards in Cenicero, San Vicente de la Sonsierra and nearby municipalities. Rioja’s quintessential grape variety is Tempranillo, but Bodegas Riojanas also owns one of the largest surface areas dedicated to Mazuelo and Graciano in the wine region. These grape varieties bring more personality to the wines produced.
The different plots of vineyards are situated on clay-limestone soils of Miocene origin, suitable for producing the highest quality grapes.
The Cenicero winery was built taking advantage of a broad slope of land. The original building has undergone eight expansions. From an initial capacity of 500 barrels, 22 vats and 50,000 bottles, the facilities have grown to almost 26,000 barrels and 4,500,000 bottles. The current processing capacity is over 3,000,000 kg of grapes each harvest. The facilities at San Vicente de la Sonsierra can process 1,500,000 kg of grapes per harvest and house 5,000 oak barrels.
Throughout its more than 100 years of history, the winemaking systems have evolved significantly —because, at Bodegas Riojanas, innovation is not incompatible with respect for tradition. Being a classic winery does not mean we make old-fashioned wine. That is why we have introduced the most advanced winemaking techniques, allowing us to adapt to current market trends.”
Bodegas Riojanas Canchales 2013– Rioja, Spain. “100% Tempranillo from Cenicero. Classic vinification with stemmed, crushed grapes using state-of-the art techniques and whole grape fermentation in open pools with carbonic maceration. We recommend drinking it within a year to better appreciate its youthfulness. Cherry-red with purplish hues. Bright. Fragrant primary aromas. Fresh, fruity and varietal. Smooth and well-balanced in the mouth. Light tannic hints. Meaty and persistent. Long, wide finish with elegant fruity nuances.” $10.99
Bodegas Riojanas Puerta Vieja Crianza 2009– Rioja, Spain. “80% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo, 5% Graciano from Cenicero and Sonsierra. Classical vinification with destemmed, crushed grapes, employing new fermentation control technologies and long maceration periods. Aged for 18 months in American oak barrels with appropriate rackings and natural stabilization. Aged in the bottle for about six months. Intense, dark-cherry red; bright. Very pronounced aromas; fruity, with outstanding notes of spices and new wood. Robust in the mouth, with a vinous personality. Pleasantly tannic, with a harmonious and very persistent finish.” $14.99
Bodegas Riojanas Vina Albina Reserva 2007– Rioja, Spain. “80% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo, 5% Graciano from Cenicero, Sonsierra and Villalba de Rioja. Classical vinification with destalked, crushed grapes, a long maceration period and controlled fermentation. Aged for 24 to 30 months in American oak barrels, with appropriate rackings. Aged in the bottle for at least 12 months before being put on the market. Highly representative of classic Rioja Alta wines. Ruby-red with a brick rim; bright. Elegant nose; harmonious aromas with hints of ageing and varietal notes. Fine and well-structured in the mouth, with good acidity and polished tannins; very well balanced. Complex finish, with a delicate, persistent fragrance. Good development in the bottle.” $20.99
Bodegas Riojanas Monte Real Reserva 2007– Rioja, Spain. “100% Tempranillo from Cenicero. Classical vinification with destemmed, crushed grapes, employing new fermentation control technologies and long maceration periods. Aged for 24 to 30 months in American oak barrels, with appropriate rackings. Aged in the bottle for at least 12 months before being put on the market. Intense cherry-red with brick hues. Clean, powerful aromas on the nose, with harmony between the oak ageing and vinous notes. Wide structure in the mouth; tasty and full-bodied. Polished, gentle tannins. Its aromas continue on the finish, which is long and persistent. Well-developed and mature, with an assured long life in bottle.” $23.99
Bodegas Riojanas Vina Albina Gran Reserva 2001– Rioja, Spain. “80% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo, 5% Graciano from Cenicero, Sonsierra and Villalba de Rioja. Classical vinification with destalked, crushed grapes, a long maceration period and controlled fermentation. Aged for 24 to 30 months in American oak barrels, with appropriate rackings. Aged in the bottle for at least 36 months before being put on the market. Select wines from the best vintages. A classic Rioja Alta wine. Cherry-red with brick hues. A wealth of aromas that develop until they are deployed in full in all their subtlety. Harmonious in the mouth; fine, elegant and velvety. Well-developed and mature, with a long-lasting aftertaste.” $35.99
Bodegas Riojanas Monte Real Gran Reserva 2001– Rioja, Spain. “80% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo, 5% Graciano from Cenicero. Classical vinification with destemmed, crushed grapes, employing new fermentation control technologies and long maceration periods. Aged for 24 to 30 months in American oak barrels, with the appropriate rackings. Aged in the bottle for at least 36 months before being put on the market. Selected wines from exceptional vintages. Outstanding personality, typical of the wines from Cenicero. Ochre-red with brick hues. It brings together a wealth aromas of a vinous nature. Balanced, sensual flavour, leaving an overall impression of opulence. Full-bodied with solid tannins and good acidity. Excellent taste persistence. Ready to drink.” $38.99